Northern Peloponnese Review
31st Jul 2019Posted by Ben Bland
The Peloponnese Review
One and a half hours from Athens airport and forty minutes East of Patras, Achaia in the North of the Peloponnese attracted the Ancients for good reason.
The area is immensely fertile with bands of citrus plantations situated on the silt plains next to the sea. Above, lie olive groves punctuated by vineyards and surrounded by Mediterranean pine forest. 1000 metres above sea-level, cows graze on alpine meadows surrounded by spruce forests, littered with mushrooms and populated by wild boar. Goat herders drive their flocks to these highland areas in summertime when the heat below becomes unbearable. Above the 1800 metre zone when the spruce trees start to become sparser, the peaks of the mountains that reach up to 2500 metres are snow- capped and it is possible to ski until the end of April if the winter remains cold.
There are three mountains in Achaia whose concave formation plunge dramatically into the Gulf of Corinth below. Each mountain is separated by Alpine valleys and gorges where the scenery is spectacular. The seaside towns of Kiato, Derveni, Akrata, Egion and finally Patras are nothing out of the ordinary but the sheer beauty of the mountainous scenery is simply breathtaking.
This region abounds with charming mountain villages and with many archaeological and historical sites to discover such as Ancient Egira and Ancient Corinth. It is also within easy reach of other major sites such as Delphi, Mycenae, Epidavros, Olympia and Athens. Spring and autumn are fabulous times to visit this beautiful area. The mountains provide a walker's paradise and the many well-marked paths offer unique opportunities to the fell walker or rambler. Although these foot paths are well marked, they are deserted and you can spend the whole day with out meeting a soul. In spring the mountains become ablaze with wild flowers which open out in sequence. First the poppies arrive turning the mountains blood red, next yellow becomes the dominant colour, then the dainty anemones or 'wind flowers' and finally, the Judas trees with their dense pink buds. Wild greens, asparagus and artichoke can all be collected through these blissfully warm months under clear skies. In autumn comes a second flowering with warm weather bathed in a golden light. The mushroom season starts and the forest are littered with all types of species: Oyster, morel, chanterelle, boletus and field mushrooms can all be found up in the alpine forests of Achaia.
The mountain villages of this area lie untouched completely by tourism. Here you will probably find a square, the local church and usually a spring with cold, mountain water. Even the smallest and remotest of villages usually have a Kafeneion where the men drink coffee, discuss and play tavli around the fireplace. The mountain tavernas abound with delicious food, creamy feta cheeses, home-baked bread, dishes of wild rabbit, boar or cockerel, and sometimes even trout from the nearby river.