Lying South of Athens and very easy to get to, artistic, bohemian in style, a ‘hang out’ for the stylish, sophisticated and sometimes famous, Hydra is definitely a place well worth considering as a summer destination.
With the prices of air-flights to the Ionian soaring, it’s worth taking advantage of the cheap offers made by budget and schedule airlines that arrive into Athens International. The new Proastiakos railway as well as the Metro terminate in the airport building so it is very easy to reach the port of Piraeus to catch an interconnecting hydrofoil that will whisk you within 1½ hours to Hydra. All forms of transport are prohibited on Hydra so no need for car hire. The island has benefited hugely from this ruling – no smelly engines or noisy mopeds to interfere with the simplicity of life and the peacefulness of the majestic surroundings.
One must be prepared to walk in Hydra since all properties are located across three hillsides and most of them are at least a 10-15 minute climb. Once up, sitting on your veranda, the views are just superb and the tendency is to remain there sipping your preferred beverage and enjoying clean air and blissful silence.
The coastline of Hydra is mainly rocky and the sea is a cool temperature and crystal clear. The municipality has installed swimming ladders so it is easy to gain access to the refreshing waters. However, the local kids prefer to access the sea by their own means. With deep plunge pools to cushion the impact, the children leap from the rocks into the sea with huge grins on their faces, only to repeat the hilarious procedure again and again and again...
The villages of Kamini and Vlychos lie to the west of Hydra town and can be easily accessed by water taxis or by local caique boats found on the quayside in front of the clock tower. All have pebbly beaches so ‘jelly’ shoes are recommended for those with tender feet! Good local food is served in the tavernas which are dotted along the coastline.
Further west is Bisti Bay, a favourite for snorkelling and exploring. A wonderful thing to do is to search for the black spiky sea urchins, break them open and guzzle them in oyster fashion with some lemon juice, olive oil, crusty bread and of course some chilled white wine.
There are other secrets to be found on the nearby island of Dhokos which, like all the other suggested places, are best accessed under the experience of one of the local caique boat captains. They aren’t too expensive and it is ‘a must’ for at least one day of a holiday. The seadogs know the secrets and can steer you in the right direction!
Autumn and springtime are fabulous seasons to visit Greece especially if your interests extend beyond the beach. Hydra is a choice destination for an alternative holiday and the network of walking paths that line the inland offer a walker’s paradise.
Most of the paths are dirt tracks mainly used by the donkeys. GPS compatible OS maps are available in many of the shops that line the harbour so with a hand held device it is very hard to get lost. The island is long and narrow so it is easy to explore the heartland which is dotted with monasteries and a profusion of flowers especially in the spring.
A favourite hike is along the west coast of Hydra to a Byzantine village called Episkopi. The walk along the coast road is reasonably flat, until you arrive at the little harbour of Palamidas, then the route goes inward and upwards through a lush forest of pine trees. Following the track you arrive at a little group of houses, surrounded by olive groves.
The local people respond warmly to a friendly smile and a greeting of "Yasou". Generous invitations are often made, to sit for a while and enjoy whatever has been prepared that day. Remember that the local wine has quite a kick and the only way back is by foot!